Mollys journal

To start this week off, I have completely changed my mind on my two designs again. This time I am going for a blazer with puffy sleeves, shorts and a trench coat with pleats and long trousers with my corset.

Ive also started sketching out some boot designs for my first competition on punk music as my chosen theme.

From this I was able to digitally design one of my boot sketches this week. I really love how this has come along as the colours and detailing works so well together.

Focusing back on my major project, I digitally created my 2 favourite designs and my final line up. These focused on certain colours and fabrics I will be using.

To start the week off, I wanted to go back to my two research books and develop more designs, samples and photos I’ve been inspired by so I am able to develop my own work and designs. I’ve been struggling with my 2 designs for this term as I’ve felt quite disheartened with it. I really liked my 2 digital designs, even though it took me a while to finalise them as I had 2 different linen ups for potential designs. However, with my actual making side, the dress and corset look really good to me.. especially now today I’ve added a lot of chain works to it, but the sleeve has not gonna to plan so I will be trying the other sleeve in a different way or ill have to re think the whole sleeve.

In the next couple of days I am also going to be looking into creating a gilet with pockets and chain works again which will go over another dress for my second design. This gilet will be inspired by Balmain with the sequins, cross stitch and extreme pockets.

Started the gilet/jacket this morning and got the initial shape I wanted. it looks like a short blazer/jacket with a chain tie around the waist. I really like how its turning out and I am thinking of doing a long sleeve see through bodysuit with lace embroidery around the boobs area and Bermuda shorts. I also came to the conclusion I really disliked my dress as it wasn’t really me. So with my corset and other design style I want to create a long pleated trouser that is inn the style of the shorts that would go with the corset and another jacket. Not too sure on the second jacket at the moment

During this week, I have also started creating pocket samples for my jacket, creating my progress sheets for next weeks tasks and have started two competition briefs. The two briefs I chose were the Shakespeare royal company competition to design a coat and the KOI foot wear competition designing a pair of shoes inspired by music.

starting this week off, I have been working on my designs on digital. It has been quite difficult as I feel as though I’m having a “designers block” at the moment. Even though this is the case I have still been trying to power through and amend/add certain things to my designs, whether that is the colour, silhouette or accessories.

Group B have also had a digital lesson with Jorgie today this afternoon on creating a working drawing of a coat. This was quite useful to me as some of the techniques she showed us were better ways of doing something instead of the way I did them, I have also learnt some new tools one illustrator which is also helpful for my working drawings to come.

Whilst being in uni I was able to Get one with developing my silhouette. With the corset I wanted to create a dress that fitted well underneath with dramatic sleeves. Obviously this dress would have embroidery and detailing on it but at the moment I am just focusing on getting my pieces made up first.

from inspiration, I was able to build a silhouette that I really liked. The dress had darts through the middle, front and back to be tight underneath the corset. I also wanted the sleeves to be big and poofy, however the sleeve didn’t turn out as hoped so I will need to change the pattern piece to get a bigger and more dramatic sleeve.

During this week I focused on building my research and finishing my corset. With my research I was struggling with some designs, even though I had a line up already, I wanted to further these designs and create something even better. To do this, I had been drawing several ideas and creating a few fabric manipulations on what I could add to my silhouettes.

With my corset, there were a few issues I had run into and needed to tweak to get my desired fit.

Firstly, after cutting the pieces out, putting the boning in and sewing it all together, I realised the top of the corset was gaping where it was too loose, this meant id need to pin the areas on the corset that needed taking in. Once doing this, I then created new pattern pieces for those areas.

Again, I would need to repeat the process of cutting and sewing things together. However, this time I did not sew the whole corset together as I am needing to add in straps and my chain pieces.

Placing the two corset pieces together (back and front) on the mannequin, the fit was perfect around the bust and waist where I had taken it in previously.

Placing the two corset pieces together (back and front) on the mannequin, the fit was perfect around the bust and waist where I had taken it in previously.

With this now, I am hoping to bring my chains in next week to have a play around one the stand to see where it would best fit with the corset, whether it being straps, buckles or just as an accessory.

During this week I have been busy creating several designs for a potential corset to start making today. Being back in the studio first time was nerve wracking but exciting. Very unusual to see no one in the building whereas it being packed.

Obviously due to covid the studio has changed drastically. However, I actually prefer how it is set out now and being able to have a table to ourselves.

With my corset, I decided to create a traditional square neck with thick straps and a lower curve at the bottom, similar to my inspiration of Vivienne Westwood’s corsets. This corset would work really well with my outfits as its such a simple design that can be modified to fit my style. Also, as it is my first time creating a corset I wanted it to be one that I know I want to have inn my collection.

Getting into the routine of university again was a different feeling this year.. I was quite nervous yet eager to start my final year as we have been off for so long. Over the summer I have created and sourced a lot of research, sample pieces and a mini portfolio to present my ideas back on my first week. Our first proper day was online due to COVID-19. Our tutors first welcomed us back and began to explain our first term back and what it is we will be doing. Automatically, listening to this I was quite stressed as we went straight into work however, I kept my head cool instead of panicking and wrote a few notes and guidance down for myself to read over.

For our first term, we will be mainly exploring our ideas and using new techniques, whether that is digital or practical.

after this we had a H&M designer talk to us about her journey and what it is we should expect after uni. I really enjoyed listening to this as I’ve always been worried what life is after uni and how I get out there into the industry, but she made it clear it will come at your own pace when you’re ready and to just email lots and lots of designers about internships etc.. She Also went onto sustainability which gave me the inspiration to look into that myself and create a few naturally died fabric samples.

We then went onto the students presentations. These were very interesting to see as you can see everyone’s personalities show and how different they all are.

This project has definitely been my favourite project so far as I have been able to find myself as a designer. As it was all about us and what we wanted to do, I furthered my knowledge into my favourite style clothing (street style/conservative style) and got crafty creating several fabric manipulations. Being able to take my own path down these lanes really opened my mind to new details which I could use for future preferences.

This project has also given me the chance to express what it is I like and become more confident in myself to create something outside of my comfort zone. For example, even with having to work at home, I created a detailed jacket, top and dress by myself, which I didn’t think I would be able to do this time last year.

With the practical side and digital, I feel as though my digital work has been quite challenging for me as I have changed it several times already… However, with our tutorials and online tutorials I have developed my skills and created a portfolio that I think portrays me and is professional at the same time.

 

Prepping for my photoshoot consisted of using white and black beds sheets being used for the background/flooring and myself modelling my final pieces.

I wanted my photos to be taken outside for the natural lighting and potentially even using the countryside as some of the background as well.

I was also inspired by several social media influencers who have used mirrors for their shoots and I wanted to also incorporate a big mirror into it for some of the shoots with myself using a professional camera into the mirror for a cool effect.

 

Doing the photoshoot was a lot of fun. I loved how the photos turned out considering I have never modelled before for my clothing. I think the white background and mirror prop really made the images come to life and create a more dramatic piece. I also actually liked the crease lines and movement in the white backing as it gave more definition to the images which I wanted.

My toile pieces were photographed against a rustic/utility wall for another dramatic turn out.

Again, I really loved the turn out of these images with the contrasting background and toile colours.

Whilst working at home, Ive had the time to develop my skills by creating accessories for my garments and how I would style them.

As there is quite a lot of key features on my garments, I didn’t want to create an accessory that distracted the audience from my outfits. However, I did want to push myself in creating something that linked into my designs and gave the outfit that extra detail.

I decided I wanted to make a set of earrings. However, trying to find an earring making kit or the tools I needed was impossible during the circumstances and online. This meant, I had to think of ways I could create the earrings from scratch.

Once looking around, I found items such as metal bolts, eyelets and spare fabric I had used for my outfits to start making the earrings. I also took apart an old set of earrings for the fish hook part for the top.

with attaching the bolts, I was going to use thread at first but that didn’t work out how I wanted so instead, I cut eyelets in half and attached them to the bolts to create the centre piece of the earring.

 

This process was repeated a few times until I had my desired earring. To make sure the earring linked in with my collection, I sewed a pattern onto the fabric that I have used frequently during my outfit making.

Even though these earrings were handmade, I think they add character to my mini collection and have showed my textile/creative skills using random objects around the house.

Whilst cutting up the eyelets, I was also potentially thinking of using them as ear cuffs to add small detail to one of my ears perhaps for the photoshoot as I am hoping to wear them myself. This could be another key feature for my shoot.

I was also inspired by the metal bolts, that I even added them onto my jacket as small details on the elastic hooks as shown below.

 

During the past few days, I have also been creating a prototype belt bag that I could potentially bring into my collection next year. The turn out of the belt wasn’t as successful as my other designs, but as it was a first, quick attempt to get an idea I think it looked good. This is definitely something I would like to look into further next year as one of my main key features for the collection.

As my research book has a lot of variated pocket styles, sleeves, cuffs etc I decided to create sample pieces for each topic.

First of all, I found several different materials that I was potentially  going to use for my mini collection. I wanted my collection to be black and neutrals. The materials needed to be stretchy, thick for the jacket and some sort of casing for the elastic strings.

these were the materials I had chosen for my mini collection.

Once sourcing my materials, I went onto sampling tags for my jacket, pockets, cuffs and embroidery stitching.

Researching various tags, pockets and cuffs before making my actual toiles helped me a lot with getting the right size, shape and technique ready for my garments. If I hadn’t of done this, my garments wouldn’t look as professional as they do.